How to Measure for Curtains: Width, Drop and Fullness
Curtains look wrong for one of two reasons: they are too narrow, or they are hung too low. Both come from measuring the window instead of measuring the space. The two rules that fix almost everything: total curtain width should be 2 to 2.5 times the rail width, and the rail goes well above the window, not on it.
Measure the rail, not the glass
Curtains hang from a rail or rod, so the rail is what you measure from — and the rail should be wider and higher than the window itself.
- Decide where the rail goes first. Extend it 15–25 cm beyond the window on each side so open curtains clear the glass and let full light in.
- Mount it high. 10–20 cm above the window frame, or higher — up towards the ceiling if the room is short. Height is what makes a window look larger.
- Measure the rail width, not the window width.
- Measure the drop from the rail (from the ring or hook, not the rail itself) to where you want the hem.
- Measure each window separately. In Kenyan buildings, two windows in one room are frequently not the same size.
The fullness rule
Curtain fullness is the ratio of fabric width to rail width. Too little and the curtain hangs flat and mean, whatever the fabric cost.
| Fullness | Look | Use for |
|---|---|---|
| 1.5× | Flat, minimal gathering | Sheers where you want light through |
| 2× | Properly gathered — the standard | Most rooms |
| 2.5× | Rich, deep folds | Sitting rooms, heavier fabrics, pinch pleat |
| 3× | Very full | Formal, sheer voile |
Worked example. A 2 m rail at 2× fullness needs 4 m of total curtain width. As a pair, that is two panels of 2 m each. If you buy two 1 m panels for that rail you have 1× fullness, and they will look like flat sheets no matter how good the fabric is.
Choosing the drop
| Style | Hem sits | Suits |
|---|---|---|
| Sill length | 1 cm above the sill | Kitchens, bathrooms, windows above furniture |
| Below sill | 10–15 cm below the sill | Bedrooms, practical everyday rooms |
| Floor length | 1–2 cm above the floor | Sitting rooms, dining rooms — the most versatile |
| Puddled | 5–10 cm on the floor | Formal, heavy fabric; collects dust |
For most Kenyan homes, floor length ending just above the floor is the safest choice — it looks intentional, does not drag through dust, and does not catch when you sweep.
Fabric for Kenyan light and dust
Equatorial sun is harsher than most curtain advice assumes, and the dry season brings dust through every open window.
- Sun fades fabric fast on west- and north-facing windows. Mid-tones and patterns hide fading; strong dark solids show it as a visible band where the fold sat.
- Line curtains on the sunniest windows. A lining doubles the life of the face fabric and improves how the curtain hangs.
- Blackout for bedrooms if you sleep past sunrise — equatorial sunrise is early and consistent all year.
- Sheers plus a heavier pair is the practical combination: sheers for daytime privacy with light, the heavier pair for night and sun control.
- Avoid heavy pile fabrics in dusty areas. They hold dust and are hard to shake out.
- Check washability before buying. In a dusty climate, curtains that must be dry-cleaned get washed once a year; washable ones get washed when they need it.
Rails, rods and hanging
- Support every 1–1.5 m. A long unsupported rail sags in the middle, and a sagging rail ruins the line of an otherwise good curtain.
- Fix into something solid. In many Kenyan homes that means drilling into concrete or block — use the right plug and bit rather than trusting a plasterboard fixing.
- Rings glide better than a rod through a channel if you open and close daily.
- Double rails let you hang sheers behind a heavier pair on the same window.
- Tie-backs keep the fabric off the glass and make a room feel wider during the day.
How much fabric if you are having them made
Tailoring is common and often better value than ready-made. Give the tailor these numbers:
- Rail width × fullness = total finished width required.
- Divide by fabric width (commonly 110–150 cm) to get how many "drops" of fabric you need — always round up.
- Drop measurement + hem and heading allowance — typically 20–30 cm extra per drop.
- Multiply drops × (drop + allowance) = total metres of fabric.
- Add extra for a pattern that must match across panels — repeats cost fabric.
Buy a little more than the calculation says. Running short mid-project with a fabric that is no longer in stock is the classic tailoring failure.
Five mistakes to avoid
- Measuring the window instead of the rail. The rail should be wider than the window.
- Hanging the rail on the frame. Higher makes the room look taller and the window bigger.
- Buying at 1× fullness. Two narrow panels on a wide rail will always look wrong.
- One measurement for the whole house. Measure every window.
- Ignoring wash care in a dusty climate.
Frequently asked questions
How wide should curtains be?
Two to two and a half times the rail width in total. A 2 m rail needs about 4 m of curtain across both panels.
How high should a curtain rail be hung?
10–20 cm above the window frame, or higher toward the ceiling in a room with low walls. Height makes the window look larger.
How far should the rail extend past the window?
15–25 cm each side, so open curtains clear the glass completely.
Should curtains touch the floor?
Ending 1–2 cm above the floor is the most practical for Kenyan homes — it looks deliberate and avoids dragging through dust.
Do I need lining?
On sunny windows, yes. Lining protects the face fabric from fading and improves how the curtain hangs.
How much fabric do I need for made-to-measure curtains?
Rail width × fullness gives finished width; divide by fabric width for the number of drops; multiply drops by drop length plus 20–30 cm for hems. Add extra for pattern matching.
What is best for a bedroom in Kenya?
Blackout, or a lined heavier pair with sheers behind. Equatorial sunrise is early all year round.
Dress your windows
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